Urban Suburban Rural Security Landscaping and Lighting - Part 1

I was reading a blog by “Riverwalker” and got to thinking … No matter our age or if alone, a couple or in a family unit, urban, suburban or rural, we all want to be safe while in our homes or yards and we want our homes safe when we aren’t there. On top of that we also want our “homesteads” to look nice and be relatively easy and cheap to care for.

I currently live in Albuquerque, NM, which is rather unique in that we have a rural valley that runs through the middle of town that we affectionately call “The Bosque”. Part of this town is dubbed “The East Side”, which means the east side of the Sandia Mountains. My home is in the “Heights”, on the northwest side of the mountain. I have survived the “autumn of the bear” in my backyard and the “spring of the bobcat” in my trash; I’ve walked the Bio Park and seen a family of (5) coyote not more than ten feet from me; Have either a falcon or hawk that lives in my neighborhood and keeps the pigeons at minimum and a roadrunner that loves my birdbath; I’ve had to get help to remove a rattler that slithered its way into my garage and someone to get rid of the black widow and tarantula nests I’ve found in my xieroscaped yard. But what scared me the most, upset me the most; was helping to thwart several intruders/burglars in my neighborhood. All of this in my noisy crowded city? If all of this can happen here, what about the country?

I have been living alone for quite some time now and had done some research on security landscaping, which I implemented for my current urban home way back in the day. Now I am planning to retire and re-locate to a rural area soonest. Add to this what I have experienced here in the city and my memories of my grandparent’s farm, not to mention me currently battling squirrels, chipmunks and scoundrels, while my rural friend’s battle deer, elk, moose and bear - I felt this subject warranted new research. After all I want not only myself, my family and friends, but my home, its contents, my animals and garden to be safe from four and two legged uninvited guests too. I at least want enough time to arm myself if need be.

So I decided to re-research this subject from the rural and older age perspective and I thought I would share what I have learned. I not only searched the web from landscaping to law enforcement to homesteading sites, I also talked to my area professional landscapers, law enforcement, friends and neighbors. Believe it or not, even Homeland Security has something on this subject. Go figure. Then I talked with my friends in Maine, upper Michigan, Tennessee, Montana, Idaho, Wyoming, Texas, Oregon and Arizona. Most of who are living the rural, if not “boonies” lifestyle.

I found one FBI statistic that stated that there is a home burglary every 15.4 seconds somewhere in the United States. Most burglaries occur during the day, when occupants are away. Most occur during July and August, with the fewest in February. Most burglars are young males, under 25 years old, looking for small items easily converted into cash. About 70% of burglars use some force to enter a building, but open doors and windows are of course preferred.

Intruders also look for no to few obstacles blocking quick exits, and public access on at least one side of a property fence. Homes next to schools, along drainage ditches, and near parks or similar venues are among the most vulnerable.

To avoid getting caught, the intruder’s ideal home is one they can get into and out of quickly, easily, and not be seen. Above all they are opportunists.

While most police will say that dense landscaping is an invitation to trouble and that statistically houses that cannot be seen from the street are at a higher risk for break-ins than houses that are, there are other landscaping tips they do not stress that they really should. Like their own "3-7" rule, especially if combined with thorny plants. IE: security landscaping.

The 3-7 Rule is to keep shrubs near the house no more than 3 feet high to deprive a potential intruder of a hiding place; Keep tree limbs at least 7 feet away from the side of the house and at least 12 feet off the ground, to deprive the intruder of easy access to a second level window or balcony.

This means thin out overgrown foliage on large shrubs to expose branch structure; if you can see through large plants, no one can hide behind or in them. If a plant is too overgrown, remove it and start over with one that's slower growing or lower to the ground. Prune shrubs for clear views from windows.

If you live in an urban or suburban area and you are considering building a wall or fence, you need to think about building codes. Securing an area usually requires complete enclosure and possibly a structure eight to 10 feet high. Most local building codes allow only six to seven feet, unless you obtain a variance. Vines on walls can help discourage graffiti but some vines will make the wall or fence climbable. Thinking security may dictate where walls or fences are installed and how high they should be. And high cinderblock or other thick walls can muffle noises like a neighbor of mine found out after he raised his backyard walls to 12 feet and an intruder accosted his wife. Us neighbors heard some muffled noises but could not quickly determine if it was kids playing one block over or from their house. As a result, we were a little slow to alert the authorities and help.

If you are determined to have a fence in these populated areas, consider picket fences, lattice with large openings, walls with open patterns or other see-through design, chain link (not pretty but cheap) or solid iron picket (nice looking but expensive).

If these walls or fences need a gate, avoid one from a deserted alley or pathway or blind corner and the like.

Seating in a fenced or walled area should be placed not only for relaxation, but in a place where you can see passerby, around your compound and so forth.

If you are in a rural area, a fenced courtyard or backyard would be nice to keep the kiddies and pets in and others out. To accomplish this and still more or less, follow the 3-7 Rule, my farmstead friend created a solid straw bale four and half foot high wall and imbedded broken, very sharp wine and beer bottle glass all along the outside and top of it. She has told me it was high enough that her children could not touch the top until they were old enough to know it was sharp and the deer were discouraged from the wall, even at night, as the motion sensor lights would reflect off the glass on the outside and top of the wall. She also told me that the glass did not stop a two legged intruder, but the wireless driveway alarm alerted her at the same time the lights startled him and even though he continued to intrude, she was alerted in time to give the bugger a very armed “welcome” and detention (tied up in her root cellar) until the county sheriff arrived to take him away.

Again, no matter where you live, be sure to have your lawn mowed and have someone pick up newspapers and mail if you are away – IE: Don’t advertise that your home is ripe for the picking.

Food Storage - Appendix – Links to Documents, Checklists and Other Resources - Part 8

Appendix – Links to Documents, Checklists and Other Resources

I have uploaded many documents on Google to share regarding: Preparedness, Homesteading, First Aid, Survival, Food Storage and the like. You can view and download using the following link. http://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B7fDAC2AGpAFYzI3MjZiZDAtNTFlMi00NGY3LTljMzgtMjIxOTc5NDc2MjAz&hl=en

Information used in this letter to my friends:

3 month Food Supply FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
Ark Project Food Storage Plan Obtain a 3 Month Supply in 12 Weeks theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=242
Ark Project Monthly Food Storage Plan theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=230
Building A Starter Food Storage - An Online Plan myfavoriteezines.com/articles/how-to-start-food-storage.html
Emergency Water Purification i4at.ORG
Emergency Water Supply i4at.ORG
EVERYTHING UNDER THE SUN - Putting the Foods You Love Into Food Storage by Wendy DeWitt theideadoor.com or everythingunderthesunblog.blogspot.com
Fluids And Hydration Unv Minn
Food Storage Calculator - Long Term Food Storage Calculator and Inventory Sheet foodstoragemadeeasy.net
Food Storage Checklist 1 foodstoragemadeeasy.net/fsme/checklists/bsc-1-gs.html
Food Storage for $$$ dollars a Week theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236
Food Storage Inventory Sheet DealsToMeals.com
Hydrations Needs Throughout Lifespan jacn.ORG
It wasnt raining when Noah built the Ark Booklet - Monthly storage and 72 hour go bag plan theideadoor.com
Long Term Food Storage Shelf Life providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,7797-1-4222-1,00.html
Monthly Storage Calendar theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=250
One Year Supply Guide - Suggested Amounts of Basic Foods for Home Storage-Per Adult for One Year DealsToMeals.com
Project Noah Food Storage Getting Started theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=244
Starting Your Food Storage - Tips from the LDS Church providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,2236-1-1130-1,00.htm
Shelf Life Food Storage FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
Storage Montly Calendar theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=250
Storage of Dry Foods TheIdeaDoor.COM
Storing Water theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=252
Three Month Menu Plan Worksheet foodstoragemadeeasy.net
Water Storage Container FAQ scribd.com/doc/8521220/Water-Storage-Container-FAQ
WaterStorage.pdf Family-Survival.com
Where To Store Food theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=255 
Additional Information Regarding Food Storage, Animal Safety, Self-Reliance, and General Preparedness
100 Ways to Stretch Your Food Dollars theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=227
72 Hour Contents List FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
72 Hour Kit Shopping List FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
72HR-Preparedness.pdf scribd.com/doc/4266677/72HR-Preparedness
Anything and everything self-reliant backwoodshome.com/
Apple Box Oven theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=228
ASPCA Pet Disaster Preparedness aspca.org/pet-care/disaster-preparedness/
AVMA_pets_saving_family_brochure.pdf American Veterinary Medical Association
BackHome Magazine backhome.com
Backwoods Home Magazine backwoodshome.com/
Backwoods Living backwoodsliving.com/
Backwoodsman Magazine backwoodsmanmag.com
Basic Water Information i4at.ORG
Be Prepared Emergency Essentials beprepared.com
Bishop's Storehouse Cookbook Food Storage Recipes theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=245
BugOutBags-bugbag-survivalistbooksCOM.rar survivalistbooks.COM
COLLEGE STUDENT EMERGENCY KIT TheIdeaDoor.COM
College Student Emergency Kit theideadoor.com/
Consumer Reports & spin off Shop Smart consumerreports.com shopsmartmag.org
Cooking with Basic Food Storage theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=246
Country Magazine country-magazine.com
Countryside Magazine countrysidemag.com/
Disaster Preparedness - contains Readiness, Response, Survival, Recovery - Bug Out Bags/Grab & Go Bags, Safe Rooms...
knowledgehound.com/topics/survival.htm
Disaster Preparedness Auto Breakdown.pdf scribd.com/doc/16960644/Auto-Preparedness
Emergency Binder - Documentation Grab-n-Go Book - Contains links to detailed pages of each important thing needed in this grab-n-go documentation binder theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=979
Emergency Binder Suggestions theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=981
Emergency Checklist FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
EMERGENCY DENTAL FIRST AID KIT theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=978
Emergency-Preparedness-Grab-n-Go.pdf scribd.com/doc/17778582/Emergency-Preparedness-Grab-n-Go
Emergency-Preparedness-Shelter-in-Place.pdf scribd.com/doc/18057389/Emergency-Preparedness-Shelter-in-Place
Emergency-Sanitation-At-Home-DoD 1958.pdf snardfarker.ning.com/profiles/blogs/survival-books-free-downloads
Enjoy Simple Living enjoysimpleliving.com/index.html
EPA_fs_emergency-disinfection-drinkingwater-2006.pdf EPA
FamilyDisasterSuppliesKitRedCross.pdf American Red Cross
FamilySurvivalCom.doc family-survival.com/?CFID=13065469&CFTOKEN=7e3d519e3ff21a9-9177D528-1D09-2FD4-73E6545CA0852804
Farm and Ranch Living Magazine farmandranchliving.com
Farming Friends farmingfriends.com/
Food Storage - Getting Started foodstoragemadeeasy.net/getting-started/
Food Storage - Preparedness theideadoor.com/Preparedness/Emergency%20Preparedness.htm
Food Storage Bucket-labels FoodStorageMadeEasy.NET
Food Storage Recipes theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=245
Frugal Living Tips frugal-living-tips.com/
Get Ready_Supply_checklist.pdf Homeland Security
GetReady_pets Homeland Security
Helping farmers and ranchers protect livestock (Preparedness) homeland1.com/disaster-preparedness/tips/397245-Helping-farmers-and-ranchers-protect-livestock/
Homesteading homestead.org
How to use Powdered Milk without having to Drink It theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=247
How-To-Treat-and-Heal-Your-Pet-at-Home Snardfarker.com
In Case of Disaster Protect Your Pet_petprotect petprotect.com
K9 First Aid Kit k9forensic.org/k9firstaid.html complements of ssris.ORG
LDS Preparedness Manual.pdf ldspreparedness.com/
Life Unplugged lifeunplugged.net/
Making_Emergency_Ration_Packs-FAST.pdf http://www.itdg.org/ http://practicalaction.org/home http://www.fastonline.org/
Manual of Naval Preventive Medicine, Chapter 1: Food Service Sanitation, Section V: Storage and Care of Food Items" brooksidepress.org/Products/OperationalMedicine/DATA/operationalmed/Manuals/food/manual/section5/1-34.htm
New Findings for Longer-Term Food Storage theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=85
NFPA_GetReady_facts_all.pdf Get Ready - Blackouts, Wildfires, Volcanoes, Tornados, Thunderstorms, Emergency Preparedness, Nuclear Power Plant Incidents, National Security, Landslides, Huricanes, Home Fires, Hazardous Materials Incidents, Floods, Extreme Heat, Earthquakes, Relief Aid, Winter Storms and Extreme Cold NFPA - National Fire Protection Association
Organic Gardening avant-gardening.com/
Path to Freedom - Urban Homesteading pathtofreedom.com/
Pet Owners Homeland Security
Pets saving_family_brochure StealthSurvival.com
Preparedness Information - Emergency Survival, Many Subjects stealthsurvival.blogspot.com/
Preparing-And-Canning-Fermented-Food-And-Pickled-Vegetables-USDA.pdf snardfarker.ning.com/profiles/blogs/survival-books-free-downloads
Safe Water in Emergencies theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=984
Sample Emergency Plan-CNI.pdf CNI
Self-Sufficiency and Sustainable Living self-sufficiency-guide.com/
Self-sufficiency-Guide self-sufficiency-guide.com/index.html
shelf life guide Food Storage foodstoragemadeeasy.net
Small Farm Today smallfarmtoday.com/
Smallholder smallholder.co.uk/
Sprouting theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=249
Starting Your Food Storage providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,2236-1-1130-1,00.html
The Homesteading Information Directory homesteadinginfo.com/homesteading/index.html
The Suburban Survival Guide -suburb.rtf Survivalists / Survival Network
The Walden Effect waldeneffect.org/
Tips For Storing And Handling Vitamins articlesbase.com/medicine-articles/tips-for-storing-and-handling-vitamins-167108.html
Two Week Cooking Calendar Menu DealsToMeals.com
Urban Farm urbanfarmonline.com
Urban Homesteading urban-homesteading.com/index.htm
Urban-Survival-Kit.pdf scribd.com/doc/17338146/Urban-Survival-Kit
Water Barrels Storing Water theideadoor.com/
Water FAQs AusSurvivalist.COM
WATER PURIFICATION theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=253
Water Storage Information Booklet theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=254

From a 50 Something, soon to be homesteading Prepper

Food Storage - Appendix – Medicine Storage - Part 7

Medicine Storage

According to a Medical Study in the UK (http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/10168.php) the recommended maximum storage and transit temperatures for most medications is 25 degrees C or 77 degrees F and are set by the pharmaceutical manufacturers. ... Others, however, 'do seem temperature sensitive.' Many drugs, including cefalexin, ampicillin and erythromycin have shown a reduction in efficacy when exposed to high temperatures. Aspirin, for example, degrades under increased temperature conditions. ...

From Prevention.com

General Guidelines

• Store medicines in a cool, dry place, protected from sunlight and out of reach of children. A good spot is the top shelf of a linen closet. A bad spot is a bathroom cabinet, due to the high humidity.
• Group medications by category so the one you need doesn't get lost in the shuffle.
• Once a year, throw away outdated drugs. Some old medicines lose potency, while others may undergo chemical changes that could make them unstable or even risky.
• Contact the American Pharmaceutical Association for more information if lacking from the pharmacists or missing on the label.

Repeated in another article by Teri Walsh when interviewing Marisa A. Lewis of PharmD on Prevention.com

• Keep it cool and dry. Read storage recommendations carefully. Unless special conditions are suggested (for example, antibiotics are often stored in the refrigerator), choose a storage spot that's cool, dry, protected from direct sunlight, and out of the reach of children. Best bet: the top shelf of a linen closet. Worst: bathroom cabinets, due to high humidity.
"Proper storage is important, but most people don't bother because the bathroom is so convenient," Dr. Lewis says.
• Organize. Group meds by category so the one you need doesn't get lost in the shuffle. Put cold remedies, tummy soothers, and pain relievers into labeled plastic storage boxes for easy retrieval.
• Toss. Once a year, throw away outdated drugs and remedies. Some old medicines lose potency, while others may undergo chemical changes that could make them unstable and even risky, says Paul Insel, MD, professor of pharmacology and medicine at the University of California, San Diego.

Tips For Storing And Handling Vitamins (focus on bulk generic) from ArticlesBase.com

It is vital that all drugs, even vitamins, are kept out of the reach of children. Excessive amounts of vitamins such as A, D and K can be exceptionally harmful to children.

When vitamins are stored properly, they can usually remain at their best for four to five years. So, what are the most important things to know about supplying and handling vitamins?

• •First and foremost, the majority of discount vitamins and supplements should be tightly sealed, at a cool temperature, dry and away from light. The information for the specific requirements for the vitamins can usually be found on the packaging and the manufacturer's website or customer service line.

• •The best place to keep vitamins is in the linen closet, which can accommodate all of the requirements for storage.

Vitamins should only be placed in the refrigerator when long-term storage is necessary. According to Glen Shue, a nutritionist for the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), a three-month supply of the discount vitamins should be kept out of the refrigerator, with the remaining sealed tightly. For all others when it comes time to retrieve more vitamins, the storage bottle should be taken out of the fridge, allowing it to get to room temperature before opening. A helpful money saving tip is to ensure that when buying in bulk, the specific types of vitamins and/or minerals being purchased will be used on a daily basis to ensure that they do not go too far out of date and thus disposed of.

• •The only supplements that don't fall under the "no fridge rule" are fatty acids and antioxidants, especially Carotenoids (luteins, beta-carotene, etc.) and Vitamin E. These must be must be protected from air oxidation thus storing in the refrigerator in a dark bottle/container is best.

• •Never store vitamins in the kitchen or in the bathroom. The bathroom is a bad idea because of the amount of heat and humidity caused by showers or bathing. Kitchens also contain a large amount of moisture as well as vaporized fats. These collect on the vitamins, causing them to lose their potency.

• •Packaging does make a difference! As often as possible discount vitamins and minerals need to be kept in the original container it was sold in. in order to avoid deterioration of its strength.

The Food and Drug Administration does NOT require expiration dates or storage instructions on bottle on vitamins. While most manufacturers indicate the dates anyway, it is not a requirement.

** Vitamins that are out of date are not dangerous to a person's health. These vitamins simply lose their effectiveness and potency.

Medicine Storage for Pets and Livestock from FoodAssurance.teagasc.ie

Medicine Storage: Best Practice

Secure, segregated and safe storage of medicines/remedies and equipment (e.g. needles) is important.

Suitable Storage

• The medicine store (s) should be of a sufficient size and strength to hold all the livestock remedies on the farm.
• Store livestock medicines in accordance with manufacturer instructions. Some medicines may need to be stored within a specified temperature range. (e.g. vaccines) and may require refrigeration. Medicines from a refrigerator that were inadvertently frozen should be discarded.
• The medicine store should not be located in direct sunlight or adjacent to any source of direct heat.
• The medicine store should be located indoors (e.g. in an adequately lit shed)

Safe Storage

• Livestock medicines must be kept out of the reach of children
• The medicine store should be locked when not in use. The key should be kept in a safe location. All farm workers should know the store location.
• The medicine store should contain a clear warning label.
• Do not store medicines in close proximity to animal feed. Any medicated feed (if prescribed) should be clearly labelled and stored away from ordinary feed.
• Dairies are an unsafe place to store medicines, accidental contamination of milk could potentially occur.
• Do not store medicines near household food (e.g. deep freezes, fridges) in case of accidental contamination of food.
• Store medicines separately to other farm chemicals (e.g. weedkillers, disinfectants). Animals have been poisoned where farm chemicals were given by mistake.
• Segregate and preferably remove expired medicines from ‘in use’ medicines.
• All spillage’s should be removed immediately from the medicine store and disposed of in accordance with manufacturer recommendations.

Food Storage - Appendix – More on Containers - Part 6

Storing Bulk Dry Foods in PETE Bottles using Oxygen Absorbers from Instructables.com

PETE plastic bottles are good containers that can be used for storage of shelf-stable, bulk dry foods that you normally keep in canisters in your pantry. Normal kitchen canisters do not have air tight seals. As a result, with changes in atmospheric pressure, air and moisture are pumped in and out of the products causing them to become stale more quickly.

Because of their oxygen/moisture barrier qualities, PETE bottles can be used as canisters to better maintain the freshness of stored dry foods. If you want to store these items for a longer time period, the use of oxygen absorbers in the PETE bottles will protect against insect infestation and help preserve quality longer.

In order to kill insects in adult, larva, and egg stages of growth, it is necessary to pull the oxygen content down to below 1% and hold it there for at least two weeks. Most types of plastic bottles are too porous, and leak too much oxygen in, but PETE bottles work well. Soda bottles and most shelf-stable juice bottles are made of PETE. Look at the recycle emblem on the bottom. It should have a #1 in the emblem and the letters PETE or PET below.

Step 1 Choose which types of bulk dry products you want to store

Decide on the types of products that you are going to store in PETE bottles using oxygen absorbers. These bulk items need to be dry, about 10% moisture or less and low in oil content.

Examples of suitable products are:

Grains : Oats, White Rice, Wheat, and Corn
Milled Grain Products : White Flour, Degermed Corn Meal, and Rice Flour.
Legumes : Beans, Split Peas, and Lentils
Nonfat Dry Milk: Regular and Instant
Dehydrated Fruits and Vegetables : Apples, Carrots, Onions, and Potatoes (Must be dry enough, both inside and out to snap when bent)

Examples of products that are not suitable in this type of storage are items that have high or exposed oil content, high moisture or contain leavening. Most of these foods are kept in their original containers and rotated frequently Storage time can be increased by storing them in freezer bags, in the freezer:

Oily or Moist Grains and Milled Grain Products : Brown Rice, Whole Grain Flours and Cereals, Granola etc.
Nuts
Brown Sugar
Products containing leavening : Cake/pancake mixes, Biscuit mixes, etc. In the grocery stores these products are package in breathable packages that allow the gas produced by the leavenings to escape.
Home Dehydrated Fruits and Vegetables This is "reduced oxygen packaging". If moist foods, such as inadequately dried vegetables are stored this way, it could result in a botulism poisoning risk. If you have any question about the storability of a given product, contact your local County Agriculture Extension Service office.

step 2 Start saving, washing, and drying bottles

Start saving bottles Each time you empty a PETE soda or juice bottle, wash it out, drain it, and allow it to dry out completely, For this purpose, save only bottles that have been used for food or water.

Used wide mouth PETE jars that contained items like peanut butter, mayonnaise, and nuts can also be serve as canisters. However they may not be airtight enough to use with oxygen absorbers. The remnants of the original foil seal from the jar rim can limit their ability to provide an adequate seal. You can test the seal by tightening the lid on an empty bottle, placing it under water and squeezing on it to see if any bubbles come out.

The photo below demonstrates how oxygen absorbers work . Air is about 20% oxygen and 80% nitrogen. Nitrogen does not harm food or promote insect growth and does not need to be removed. Oxygen absorbers reduce the amount of oxygen in the container to less than 1%. This results in a lower oxygen content than can be accomplished with vacuum packaging.

The sealed bottle has one AGELESS 300 oxygen absorber and a few drops of water for this demonstration. This is how it looks after one week. It shows that the bottle volume was reduced by about 20% , as the oxygen was absorbed. Do not add water with bulk dry foods when packaging. The products already have adequate moisture to activate the absorber.

step 3 Obtain oxygen absorbers

Obtain Oxygen Absorbers To find oxygen absorbers, you can check in the yellow pages for "packaging" suppliers or search online for "oxygen absorbers". The type of oxygen absorbers I have used for over 10 years are the AGELESS 300 absorbers from Mitsubishi Gas Chemical Co. This type of oxygen absorber comes in sealed bags of 100 absorber packets each. The 300cc size, with its reserve capacity, is adequate for PETE bottles up to 1 gallon capacity, regardless of the density of the dry foods stored.

Once you are ready to use your absorbers, you will want to open the bag and place the absorbers into glass pint canning jars. One pint jar will hold 25 absorbers, as shown below. Other sizes of jars may be used, but they need to be clean glass jars with metal gasketed lids. They do not have to be new, but must have an airtight seal.

step 4 Package bulk dry foods in bottles

Verify that the bottles are completely clean and dry before filling.

Set up the packaging area. Once you know how many bottles you are going to fill in the next 20 minutes, remove that many absorbers from your absorber supply jar, spread them out on a tray and reseal the jar lid.

Place an oxygen absorber in the bottom of the bottle. The absorber will work regardless of its location in the bottle. However placing it on the bottom allows for full use of its reserve capacity, once you start using out of and reclosing the bottle.

Fill the bottle . As you are filling, tap the bottle several times on the table to settle the product. Fill it all of the way to the top.

Wipe off the top rim of the bottle.

Verify that the lid is clean and dry.

Tighten the lid down firmly to reseal

Label the bottle with the packaging date and, where applicable, ingredients and recipe instructions.

You may want to tape around the lid with a narrow strip of duct tape to help prevent others from opening it until you are ready to use it. White duct tape works well for this purpose.

step 5 Storage of PETE bottles of bulk dry foods

Store bottles in a cool, dry location, away from light and heat. Fruit boxes from the grocery store are very good containers to store the filled bottles. Like a used apple or produce box.

PETE bottle storage Information Resources

The following are links to other reference sources for PETE bottle storage and general infomation on bulk dry storage.

Utah State University Extension Service
http://extension.usu.edu/foodstorage/htm/packaging
http://extension.usu.edu/foodstorage/htm/scientific-references

Brigham Young University
http://ndfs.byu.edu/home/Research/Long_Term_Food_Storage_Research/foodstorageresearch.aspx#packaging

FEMA
http://www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/water

LDS Church
http://providentliving.org/pfw/multimedia/files/pfw/pdf/96277_PETEBottleStorageInstructions_v4_pdf.pdf
http://www.providentliving.org/content/display/0,11666,7534-1-4065-1,00.html
http://providentliving.org/pfw/multimedia/files/pfw/pdf/96278_PlasticBucketStorageInstructions_v4_pdf.pdf


Foods for Storing and their Containers from www.the-testament-of-truth.co.uk/web/storage.htm

Containers - Containers for food need to be water proof and vermin proof (preferably metal):
1. 200 litre (44 gallon) clean open mouth drums may be obtained from food manufacturing factories etc.
Plastic bag liners may be available and care must be taken once the food has been placed in the drum that the drum is not subject to extremes of temperature allowing condensation to form on the inside of the drum, thus potentially spoiling the food
2. 20 litre square sided honey tins. These may be acquired from bee keeping suppliers and are excellent for storing food where the food may need to be moved.
3. There are many other storage containers that may be used eg. galvanised water tanks, 20 litre round food pails, large glass bottles, large concrete water pipes, heavy plastic bags.
Which Foods are best for storage. Seven factors may be considered in deciding which foods to store.
1. Calories. This is the energy carried within the food and provides the body with energy to function.
2. Nutrition. This is the vitamins, minerals, essential oils, fibre etc that are essential for health.
3. Life force. This is the vitality of the food that can add to the vitality of the individual.
4. Storage life. This is the time in which the food can be stored without losing it vitality, nutritional qualities and edibility.
5. Bulk. Storing foods efficiently requires choosing compact foods that hold a high calorie and nutritional value in a small volume.
6. Cost per calorie.
7. Preserving or protecting the food once stored from weevils, vermin and oxidation.
Food types
1. Grains. Unground cereal grains such as wheat, rye, barley, oats, maize, rice, sorghum and millet are ideal for storing. Wheat keeps the best of these and rice the least. Wheat has been stored in underground plastic lined pits for many years without going rancid. Rice apparently does not keep for more than one or two years.
Grains need to be protected from weevil infestation and moisture.
2. Legumes. These are foods such as beans, lentils, peas, chickpeas and soy beans. They store well although some may dry out and become very hard. They compliment cereals by balancing the protein content.
3. Edible Seeds. There are many varieties of seeds that can be stored such as sesame, sunflower, alfalfa, pumpkin, poppy and linseed. These need similar storage conditions to cereals.
4. Nuts. Nuts such as almonds, walnuts peanuts
5. Spices. Examples of spices are cardamom, caraway, cinnamon, cloves, dill, peppers, mustard, and celery. There are many spices not mentioned, all can be stored so that they can be used to enhance the flavour.
6. Salt. This should be included in the storage list, needing only to be kept dry. Use "iodised" if possible.
7. Sweeteners. Honey, sugar and malt etc are high calorie foods providing a quick energy source. Honey and malt also contain a modest nutritional value.
8. Oils. Olive oil and Ghee (tinned).
9. Proteins. Tinned meat, fish and other sources of protein.
10. Water. While not normally considered a food, water is an essential nutrient. People who live in towns and cities have become used to turning a tap and getting water. Ahead this may not be the case. Obtaining adequate drinkable water should be a priority in preparing for the times ahead. Rain water can be collected from roofs and stored in tanks. Some provision should be made for sterilising water by boiling. River water quality and quantity should not be assumed. Those people living in towns and cities should consider a stock of water sterilising tablets.
11. Vegetable seeds. The growing of food will be a major need ahead and thus the seeds necessary should be stored along with the other foods. Seeds such as pumpkin, turnip, parsnip, carrot, corn and the cereals can be grown for calories. The leafy vegetables such as silver beet, celery, cabbages, lettuces, parsley etc for the greenery of the meal. Whatever your local climate and food produce is, choose the seeds accordingly and store in a similar way as to cereals. These are best kept in brown paper bags, do not use plastic air tight bags.
How to store and preserve grains and seeds. Grains and seeds can be protected from weevil infestation in two ways.
1. Commercially, carbon dioxide (CO2) is used to displace the oxygen in the container. This is reported to kill all weevils and their eggs. For those who have the availability in their area of hiring gas bottles of carbon dioxide, a hose can be placed into the bottom of the container, the container filled with grain and then the gas trickled through the hose into the bottom of the vessel. The carbon dioxide gas being heavier and cooler, slowly fills the container. When a flaring match goes instantly out at the top of the container it is full of the gas and the container can then be sealed. If the reduction of the level of oxygen through displacement with carbon dioxide if sufficiently high, it will kill the weevils and eggs.
It is very important if using large containers that no one enters the container after the carbon dioxide is used as loss of consciousness followed by death may occur due to the lack of oxygen.
2. Diatomaceous earth. This is obtained from fossilised sedimentary layers of tiny phytoplankton called diatoms. It can kill insect by desiccation absorbing the oils of the insect allowing dehydration and death. It can also kill the insect through its abrasive action. It is non-toxic but care should be taken to avoid inhaling the dust. Use at a ratio of approx 1 part to 250 parts of grain and mixed into the grain as the container is filled. Diatomaceous earth is non-toxic.
If the grain is being milled, monitor the process to ensure that the mill surfaces are not worn by the dust. The powder may be washed off before using the grain. Diatomaceous earth does not work as well for maize and is more successful when the moisture content of the grain is low.

Legumes. These may be stored in air-tight containers and appear to keep reasonably well for several years. Some legumes dry out and become very hard over a period of time. These may be ground for use as a "flour."
Nuts. Nuts removed from their shell oxidise quickly and need to be eaten before a year has passed. Unshelled nuts may last longer.
Spices. These will lose some of their flavour over time due to the loss of volatile oils and to oxidation. Many spices keep in air tight containers for several years.
Sweeteners. Raw honey keeps quite well for several years in a sealed container. Sugar keeps indefinitely. Molasses etc can go "off" and should be stored in a sealed container away from light to give it an extended life.These foods are favourites of ants and care must be taken to use sealed containers
Oils. These need to be stored in airtight tin or dark glass to slow oxidation.
Using the stored foods.
1. Cereals mills. With cereals and seeds, some of them such as rice and oats can be cooked in water and eaten, others can be ground to make a flour and thus bread etc. Thus a means of grinding the grain or seed needs to be acquired.
There are several types of grinders from metal through to stone. It is suggested that the grinder you decide upon should first be trialed to note how efficiently it grinds the grain and how long it takes for the quantity required.
2. Sprouting. Sprouting of seeds, legumes and grains substantially increases the nutritional value and volume of the food. To sprout these foods, a rough guide is as follows:
A. Select, wash and place in a 1 or 2 litre wide mouthed well-washed jar.
B. Allow for a six fold increase in volume. Cover with 4 times the volume of luke warm water and allow to stand overnight or until they have swollen.
C. Pour off water and wash thoroughly and drain well.
D. Cover the jar top with cheesecloth or other mesh screening and tie on securely.
E. Invert jar and place in a cupboard or dark place allowing excess water to drain away.
F. At least once, preferably 3 - 4 times daily, wash thoroughly with plenty of cool water and drain well. This washes away moulds and bacteria that may have developed whilst moistening the seeds.
G. In 3 - 4 days at room temperature the sprouts will be from 1 to 5 cm (0.5 - 2 inches) long. Eat at a time that is found most suitable for each food. They may be lightly cooked if necessary.
H. The food chosen will require its own sprouting time and preparation for eating that can be easily learnt as you go.
Purchasing. This will depend on which country you live in but listed below are some general guidelines that may help.
Cereals, seeds and legumes can be purchased in bulk directly from farmers, grain merchants and bulk health food wholesalers and retailers. Be sure to state your usage to ensure that the food purchased has not been treated with chemicals making it unsuitable for human consumption.
Other food such as honey may be purchased directly from the producer and tinned meat and fish from supermarkets or wholesalers.

Food Storage - Appendix – Food Storage Shopping Lists - Part 5

Appendix – Food Storage Shopping Lists

Again, Many Thanks to one and all on the LDS and companion sites for this information. Additional Thanks to all you “Preppers” out there – Keep On Prepping!

There are several documents for getting started and I highly recommend all of them.

• For a great way to get started on just about $5.00 a week go to TheIdeaDoor.com and down load FoodStoragefor5aWeek.pdf.
• ArkProject_MonthlyFoodStoragePlan.pdf from TheIdeaDoor.com This contains a 72 hour kit goal as well as the food storage goal.
• Be sure to check out the Links section of this Appendix for additional lists and information

Example Weekly and Monthly Shopping lists

Below are several weekly and monthly shopping lists to get you started on your stored food pantry. Keep in mind to substitute items you do not like or medically cannot consume with items of similar nutritional value that you can eat.

Here is a very simple monthly starter plan by Beverly Qualheim from MyFavotiteEzines.com/articles/how-to-start-food-storage.html.

This list is NOT a full year supply of food, but it will get you started. When amounts are listed, they are for one person for about a full year.

• Get a marker and write the purchase date on each item to aid in rotation. The best Food Storages are used on a regular basis, replacing the food as used.
• Set aside an affordable amount of money for each week. If you have money left over from one week--use it to help purchase the next week's item.
• Make a substitution if the item is one you would never use.
• Buy in quantity when you can. If you can't -- it's ok! For example, if you cannot afford 30 lbs of oatmeal, buy 3 containers to get a start.
• It is important to remember that if you live on Food Storage you will not be eating like you do now, unless you tailor the food plan to foods your family eats for the first year and then on the second year, purchase the rest of the foods listed below for your long term storage needs.
• Buy things for your food storage that are nutritious and incorporate them into your current diet. There is no point in having a large supply of beans if you are all allergic to them! Also remember to buy single items each week and build slowly and carefully, using the products as you need to during the year.
• Good rule of thumb: if you go shopping and you have one jar of peanut butter on your list, BUY 2! Same applies for anything you can afford. Build slowly.

** Every week you will need to store away at least 2 gallons of water in 2 liter pop bottles, 5 gallon water containers, or other food safe containers. (NOT empty milk jugs as those will biodegrade.) **

JANUARY WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Chlorine Bleach - 1 gallon per family member
Week 2:
Matches and candles
Week 3:
10 cans Tuna, salmon, or chicken
Week 4:
Multiple Vitamins (especially A, C, and extra calcium)

FEBRUARY WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Hot Cereal: wheat and rice
Week 2:
Shortening - 5 lbs
Week 3:
Yeast -1/2 lb or 20 cans of corn
Week 4:
Honey 3 lbs or a gallon of Pure Maple Syrup (for sweetener)

MARCH WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Potato Flakes or pearls
Week 2:
3 lbs Raisins and dried apricots
Week 3:
Dry Milk - 14 lbs
Week 4:
Oatmeal - 30 lbs

APRIL WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
20 pkgs of vegetable seeds, various types that will grow in your area.
5 boxes of Bisquick or Jiffy mix.
Week 2:
Corn Meal - 30 lbs
Week 3:
Canned Vegetables (what your family likes) and dried apricots
Week 4:
Enriched White Flour - 15 lbs. (best stored in freezer)

MAY WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Canned Fruit (what your family likes)
Week 2:
Canned Baked Beans
Week 3:
Brown Sugar - 3 lbs
Week 4:
Vegetable Oil - 2 gallons

JUNE WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Baking Soda - 2 lbs (for cleaning) & Alfalfa Seeds (to sprout)
Week 2:
Wheat Berries (to sprout)
Week 3:
Peanut Butter - 5 lbs
Week 4:
Candles - 100 hour candles are great. But any candles will do.

JULY WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Jams and preserves - 6 lbs
Week 2:
10 lbs dried peas or beans or both
Week 3:
canned soup
Week 4:
dried lima beans

AUGUST WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Spices and multi-vitamins
Week 2:
Salt 8 lbs
Week 3:
Vegetables (canned) as frozen will not store in an emergency.
Week 4:
Baking Powder - 1 lb

SEPTEMBER WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Canned Tuna, chicken or Salmon
Week 2:
Canned Milk (12 oz cans) - 12
Week 3:
Nuts (freeze them) Week 4:
Toilet Paper

OCTOBER WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
3 boxes Corn Starch
Week 2:
White Enriched Rice - 50 lbs
10 lbs brown rice (brown rice spoils faster but it better for you.)
Week 3:
Fruit Juice (canned)
Week 4:
Vinegar - 2 gallons

NOVEMBER WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Dry Soup Mix - 5 lbs
Week 2:
Dried Beans/legumes
Week 3:
Dried green or yellow Peas
Week 4:
Popcorn

DECEMBER WATER! - As much as you can buy and store- each month!
Week 1:
Tomato Sauce or spaghetti sauce.
Week 2:
Pasta: Spaghetti, macaroni, etc., - 30 lbs
Week 3:
Crackers - 2 lbs, and dehydrated vegetables or do your own.
Week 4:
Dried Bananas, figs, or other dried fruit

The following tips will help you begin storing food:

• Protect food storage from heat. Store all products away from heat and sunlight. Food stores best at 70 degrees or cooler.
• Protect food from moisture. Store products on shelves or raised platforms, rather than directly in contact with concrete floors or walls, to avoid moisture damage.
• Protect products from rodents and insects. Bulk dry food storage products store well in #10 cans, foil pouches, glass canning jars, PETE (Polyethylene terephthalate) plastic bottles, and plastic buckets.
• For best results, rotate food storage items.

*In some locations, storing food is prohibited or limited by law. When packaging and storing food, always obey local food storage laws and sanitation guidelines.

A 51 week suggested food and emergency kit starting guide from TheIdeaDoor.com and Ark or Noah project is another good starting point to use as a guideline. Repeat the 51 week cycle as needed.

This is a suggested food and emergency kit schedule for one year --- starting with basic supply then emergency and finally expanded basic food supply (as given in Essentials of Home Production and Storage). If you follow it you will have one month's supply for 1-2 people. If you do not like an item on the list feel free to substitute. You can double, triple, or half the purchases according to your family’s needs, and your finances. There is also a weekly to do list to remind you of things to check around your home.

Week 1: At least 7 gallons of water. Hint: Water storage may be in plastic bottles, to which bleach may be added if the purity of the water is in question. (generally l/2 tsp per five gallons if water is clear or 1. tsp. per five gallons if water is cloudy.) In case of emergency, the water in water beds, water heaters, toilet tanks, and cisterns may be purified and used.

Week 2: 15 Pounds of good wheat. 'Hint: People who have small homes with limited storage space should prepare the best they can for emergencies. Basic food items often can be stored in rather limited space. Closets, attics, and space under beds can be used to store food. It is wiser to have food storage sufficient for only a few weeks or months than to have no storage at all.

Week 3: 1 large box or ten envelopes of instant milk: Hint: Make sure you have, enough bedding to keep each person warm if there were no other heating supplies.

Week 4: 10 pounds Rice. Hint: Check that you have sufficient clothing (that fits) for one year (or fabric and necessities for sewing clothing).

Week 5: 4 pounds Sugar. Hint: Ezra Taft Benson said, "The revelation to store food may be as essential to our temporal salvation today as boarding the ark was to the people in the days of Noah." "We encourage families to have on hand this year's supply; and we say it over and over and over and repeat over and over the scriptures of the Lord where He says, 'Why call ye me, Lord, Lord, and do not the things which I say?" (Spencer W. Kimball, May 1976)

Week 6: 1 large jar of honey. Hint: Double check flashlight and battery supply.

Week 7: 8 ounces of Salt. Hint: Evaluate family preparedness, set goals for the coming year and seek to obtain them.

Week 8: One bottle of vegetable oil or one can of shortening. Hint: Double check emergency supplies for baby, are diapers and clothing going to fit? Formula? (even nursing moms should make sure there is formula available),

Week 9: 5 pounds legumes (beans & peas). Hint: Have backyard campout to practice emergency skills. (good opportunity to check out warm bedding).

Week 10: Coal, wood, briquettes, propane, matches, candles for cooking and light. Hint: Make buddy burner. Cut strips of corrugated paper in 1 ½ in widths. Roll each strip tightly and fit in a tuna fish can. Pour melted paraffin wax in the can so that it soaks the paper and fills the remaining space. Each can will burn for 1 ½ to 2 hours!

Week 11: Dish Soap. Hint: Store extra prescription medication with the words "Emergency use only",

Week 12: 2 bars of body soap per person. Hint: If you have a fireplace double-check to make sure flue is clear and the fireplace is clean and can be used without danger.

Week 13: 1 gallon bleach. Hint: Have Family Home Evening from FHE Manual "Protecting your Home against Fire," pp. 332-333.

Week 14: Bandages. Hint: Make sure you have emergency provisions for pets. Standard First Aid Supplies: adhesive tape, ammonia, antibiotic ointment, bicarbonate of soda, calamine lotion, diarrhea remedy, elastic bandages, gauze bandages, hot water bottle, hydrogen peroxide, ipecac syrup (induces vomiting), knife, matches, measuring cup, medicine dropper, needles, paper bags, razor blades, rubbing alcohol, safety pins, scissors, soap, thermometer, triangular bandages, tweezers, first aid book, prescription medications, consecrated oil. First aid kits and supplies should be checked and replenished regularly. All supplies should be labeled and organized for fast use.

Week 15: First aid cream and tape, cotton balls and ace bandage. Hint: An important emergency precaution is to have tetanus immunizations up to date - at least every 10 years.

Week 16: Year supply of garden seeds rich in Vitamin A&C appropriate for area (no hybrid). Hint: Every yard has space for a garden. Part of the lawn, play area, or flower garden may be converted to a garden. Vegetables may be grown in window boxes or pots. Plant the garden where it will receive at least 4 - 6 hours of direct sunshine each day. The soil should drain well, and an adequate source of water should be available.

Week 17: Hydrogen peroxide and alcohol. Hint: Review FHE Manual lesson "Treating Bleeding", pp. 330-332.

Week 18: Obtain bag or duffel for 72 hour kit, Hint: Each family or individual should have portable container(s) with emergency supplies such as the following: water, food requiring no refrigeration or cooking (graham crackers, canned fruits, canned meats), medications and critical medical histories required by family members, change of clothing, including 2 pairs of stockings; sanitary supplies; first aid booklet and equipment; candles; matches; ax; shovel; can opener; and blanket. The container should be placed where it can be picked up at a moment's notice.

Week 19: Buy 3 cans tuna and 3 cans pork and beans for 72 hour kit. Hint: Put together a first aid kit for the car. See FHE Manual p 323.

Week 20: 1 Ib. Box of crackers sealed in plastic for 72 hour kit. Hint: Teach family how to treat shock victims, FHE Manual "Treating Shock" pp328-330.

Week 21: 1 Ib. Dried fruit & beef jerky (apples, pineapple, apricots, bananas etc.) for 72 hour kit.
Hint: Try drying the fruit yourself and making jerky by slicing thin and placing-on low heated oven overnight.

Week 22: 48 oz., canned orange or tomato juice for 72 hour kit. Hint: Post emergency numbers at all phones in the house. Have FHE about emergency contacts. FHE Manual "Emergency Numbers" pp. 323-324.

Week 23: 1 Ib. Peanut butter for 72 hour kit. Hint: Try to cook for 3 days from your food storage.

Week 24: 1 gallon of water for 72 hour kit. Hint: Have FHE "Water Safety" FHE Manual pp 339-340.

Week 25: ½ lb. Nonfat dry milk. Hint: Obtain container for first aid kit for 72 hour kit.

Week 26: Obtain change of clothing that fits for 72-hour kit. Hint: FHE Manual “Coping with Blackouts” pp 334.

Week 27: Buy peaches & berries from store or U-pick farms. Hint: Bottle (or learn to bottle) peaches and berries.

Week 28: Matches, candle, battery operated light for 72 hour kit. Hint: Store cash in $1 bills in various pockets in 72 hour kit for emergencies.

Week 29: Obtain blanket (wool is preferred) for 72 hour kit. Hint: Make sure you have emergency provisions and plans for pets.

Week 30: Buy corn or other vegetables at U-pick farm or store. Hint: Bottle or freeze veggies.

Week 31: Can opener, dishpan, dishes, utensils, ax, shovel, bucket, battery-powered radio, paper and pencil for 72 hour kit. Hint: Locate gas meter and water meter shut offs and attach a wrench near them. Children who are old enough should be show how to turn the gas and water off. Along with an explanation of when and why we should have to do this. Review FHE Manual “Earthquake Preparedness" pp. 336-337.

Week 32: Personal toiletries for 72 hour kit. (toothbrush, tooth paste, shampoo, washcloth, towel, brush, feminine hygiene) Hint: Copies of personal documents: scriptures, genealogy records, patriarchal blessing, passport, driver's license, social security card, immunizations & legal documents (wills, insurance policies, birth certificates, etc.) for 72 hour kit.

Week 33: Plastic knives, forks, spoons, cups for storage. Hint: Place first aid kits, personal items and medication in various places--car, home, shed, etc.

Week 34: 1 box baking soda and baking powder. Hint: FHE Manual "Mouth to Mouth Resuscitation & Treating Choking" pp. 325-328.

Week 35: 4 cans of cream of chicken soup, 4 cans of chicken noodle soup. Hint: Install or test your smoke detector.

Week 36: Buy chicken to bottle. Hint: Bottle or learn to bottle chicken or other foods in pressure cooker.

Week 37: 3 cans beef chunks, Hint: Have fire drill with FHE Manual p333.

Week 38: 4 cans vegetable soup. Hint: Establish an out of state contact to call in case of emergency.

Week 39: 2lbs. Macaroni and 1 Ib. Spaghetti. Hint: Place a pair of shoes under your bed so they are handy. Encourage children to store shoes under bed at night. You may want to have flashlights under children's beds also.

Week 40: 4 cans vegetables. Hint: Send copies of favorite photos to friends or family, out of state for safe keeping.

Week 41: Large box of instant mashed potatoes. Hint: Inventory all your sources of light - paper logs, hurricane lamps, candles etc. and make sure matches are nearby.

Week 42: 8 cans of canned fruit (peaches, pears, apples etc.) Hint: Store a roll of quarters and dimes for emergency calls.

Week 43: Aluminum foil, plastic garbage bags, Ziploc bags. Hint: Go on a hunt as a family to find the closest pay phone, or make survival kit see FHE Manual pp337-338.

Week 44: 4 boxes macaroni & cheese. Hint: .Take a first aid or CPR course.

Week 45: Plant fruit trees and grapevines. Hint: Make a plan to check on a ward member or neighbor who may need help in an emergency.

Week 46: Buy large garbage can and make home compost pile. (check in community for other sources) Hint: Prepare to plant garden

Week 47: 11arge jar of jam or jelly, buy apples to bottle. Hint: Use apples to bottle, dehydrate, and make into sauce or butter.

Week 48: Buy pears from farm or store. Hint: Bottle pears.

Week 49: 7 gallons of water. Hint: Make inventory of all available water.

Week 50: 1 large container of syrup. Hint: Find out what the ward emergency plans are.

Week 51: Buy ingredients for families favorite recipes. Hint: Make a list of 14 recipes your family likes and acquire all the needed ingredients. Make copies of them and put them in storage sealed in Ziploc bags.

A suggestion for two people for one year from TheIdeaDoor.com is available as a PDF at http://www.theideadoor.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=236. It was produced many years ago and is in the process of being updated. Instead of for $5.00 a week this is most likely $8-12.00 a week now. It is still an excellent guide for two adults for one year.

Week 1: 61bs. salt
Week 2: 5 cans cream of chicken soup
Week 3: 20 lbs. of sugar
Week 4: 8 cans tomato soup
Week 5: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 6: 6lbs. macaroni
Week 7: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 8: 8 cans tuna
Week 9: 6lbs. yeast
Week 10: 50Ibs.wheat
Week 11: 8 cans tomato soup
Week 12: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 13: 10 lbs. powdered milk
Week 14: 7 boxes macaroni and cheese
Week 15: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 16: 5 cans cream of chicken soup
Week 17: 1 bottle 500 multi-vitamins
Week 18: 10 lbs. powdered milk
Week 19: 5 cans cream mushroom soup
Week 20: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 21: 8 cans tomato soup
Week 22: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 23: 8 cans tuna
Week 24: 6 lbs. shortening
Week 25: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 26: 51bs. honey
Week 27: 10 lbs. powdered milk
Week 28: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 29:5 lbs. peanut butter
Week 30: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 31: 7 boxes macaroni and cheese
Week 32: 10 lbs. powdered milk
Week 33: 1 bottle 500 aspirin
Week 34: 5 cans cream of chicken soup
Week 35: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 36: 7 boxes macaroni and cheese
Week 37: 6lbs. salt
Week 38: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 39: 8 cans tomato soup
Week 40: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 41: 5 cans cream chicken soup
Week 42: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 43: 1 bottle 500 multi-vitamins
Week 44: 8 cans tuna
Week 45: 50 lbs. wheat
Week 46: 6lbs. macaroni
Week 47: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 48: 5 cans cream mushroom soup
Week 49: 5 lbs. honey
Week 50: 20 lbs. sugar
Week 51: 8 tomato soup
Week 52: 5 lbs. wheat

Some weeks you will have leftover change. Save the change each week in a kitty to be used for the weeks you may exceed $5.00 (like wheat or milk).

You will end up with:

500 pounds of wheat
180 pounds of sugar
40 pounds of powdered milk
12 pounds of salt
10 pounds of honey
5 pounds peanut butter
45 cans of tomato soup
15 cans of cream of mushroom soup
15 cans of cream of chicken soup
24 cans of tuna
21 boxes of macaroni and cheese
500 aspirin
1000 multi-vitamins
6 pounds of yeast
6 pounds of shortening
12 pounds of macaroni

Here is another simple one year suggestion list from TheIdeaDoor.com by Karla Cervantez who suggests that if something is on the list that you don’t like, substitute it with something you do. She also offers ways to save money for the purchasing of the food storage items.

January
Week 1 Popcorn: invest in a pop corn popper if you do not have one; lower your family’s fat intake.
Week 2 Detergents, bleach and other cleansers. Don't forget to use manufactures coupons.
Week 3 Medicine chest and feminine products; you do not want to be out when you need them.
Week 4 First aid supplies, band aids, Neosporin, Benadryl, ect.

February
Week 1 Canned meats, corned beef, Spam, chicken, act
Week 2 Personal products, soap deodorant, toilet paper, shampoo, lotion, ect
Week 3 Peanut Butter
Week 4 Solid shortening, less expensive than oil and stores longer, but buy oil if you prefer.

March
Week 1 Juices Avoid watered projects; look for 100% lemon, orange pineapple, ect.
Week 2 More first aid products, gauze patches, swabs, cotton balls, tape ect
Week 3 Mixes Cake, pancake, muffin, or purchase items separately and make them yourself.
Week 4 spices and Herbs Buy the ones you use the most often, pepper, cinnamon, bay leaves, oregano, etc

April
Week 1 Toiletries Toothpaste, floss razor blades, shaving cream, ect
Week 2 Pasta consider your family's tastes.
Week 3 Dry milk: 40 ounces makes 5 gallons
Week 4 Assemble an emergency sewing kit, thread, pins needles, buttons, tape measure, scissors, ect. Keep it compact and handy

May
Week 1 Flour, white wheat pastry, rye ect.
Week 2 Dry soups and crackers, Restore crispness by placing crackers in microwave (dehydrator and oven work as well.)
Week 3 Gelatin and pudding mixes. you can also make you own mixes
Week 4 Garden seeds: don't forget the radishes they grow fast and are full of vitamins

June
Week 1 White sale month; buy those much needed sheets or towels
Week 2 Safety week, replace flashlight batteries, check smoke detectors practice your fire escape routes
Week 3 Cheese cheese cheese. buy in 5,10 15 pound blocks and cut into smaller blocks and freeze
Week 4 Paper towels, aluminum foil, sandwich bags ect

July
Week 1 Condiments; mustard, catsup mayonnaise relish pickles ect.
Week 2 Canning supplies Certo or Sure jell canning lids ect. If you do not can stock up on jams and jellies
Week 3 Fill or refill water jugs.
Week 4 Canned milk, try non fat varieties to cut back in your family's fat intake.

August
Week 1 Baking powder baking soda, cornstarch ect.
Week 2 Canned fruit, buy it already canned or can some yourself.
Week 3 Tomato week. Can it yourself or already canned, whole stewed, sauce or juice, ect
Week 4 Can or freeze veggies or buy them canned or frozen

September
Week 1 Sugars: Replenish your supply from canning, also powered and brown sugar
Week 2 Canned tuna and salmon, buy them already canned or can some yourself.
Week 3 Dry beans, peas, rice, and legumes
Week 4 Sweeteners, Honey, Corn Syrup, Molasses, maple syrup ect

October
Week 1 Vinegar. apple cider, white (removes adores in laundry and great cleanser)
Week 2 Canned Soups, try the low salt and low fat varieties or make your own
Week 3 Apples, make your own pie filling, applesauce apple butter, juice, but then you can also buy if you do not can
Week 4 Nuts, Walnuts pecans almonds, ect They will freeze well

November
Week 1 Iodized salt. it seasons preserves and in a pinch a toothpaste
Week 2 Vitamins a good multi vitamins extra C for Flu and cold season ladies do not forget your calcium and vitamin D
Week 3 Treats for baking, cocoa, coconut, chocolate chips, vanilla extract, ect
Week 4 Rolled Oats, cornmeal, hot cereals, get what your family eats

December
Week 1 Cooking Oil, get good quality oil. Canola, olive and peanut oils are the healthier choices
Week 2 Candles and matches; put them where you can easily locate them in the dark.
Week 3 Merry Christmas! You've given yourself a great gift- security
Week 4 Hope you saved a little for those after Christmas sales; lots of bargains to be found this time of year. Do get out of the habit Turn this book over next week.

Food Storage - Quick, Easy, Economical Ways to Get You Started - Part 4

A Lesson Learned

Way back a very dear friend moved from Chicago to upper Michigan. Her first winter was a bit of a revelation for her. Her family’s first blizzard knocked out their electricity and phone and although she had a great pantry with about half a year’s worth of meat, vegetables, fruit, comfort food, spices, herbs and water. She made a major miscalculation! She forgot cooking utensils, pots and pans, aluminum foil and something to cook with! You see she is a gourmet cook, with all the expensive copper pots and pans and a very professional electric cook stove and oven - All useless when the power went out!

She spent the first of the three day outage, in her garage and attic searching for and retrieving her camping cook stove, pots, pans and coffee pot. Thank goodness they hadn’t sold the stuff when they moved to the country. Then she realized that she had no way to grind their coffee beans or whole grains, since her grinder was electric. Her husband managed to hook up the camp stove to the propane lead for the furnace and got it to work and they had a couple of bags of charcoal left over from the summer for their grill. But that first day her and her family lived off Pop-Tarts and water and they went without coffee and bread products for the whole outage.

That summer they purchased an all purpose woodstove insert to their fireplace. It has a two burner top, medium sized oven, small warmer oven and a 5 gallon water tank for hot water. She created a shelf for her camping equipment that was easily reachable in the garage and added a few cast iron items she felt she may need, along with aluminum foil, a hand grain/coffee bean grinder, small propane tanks, extra charcoal for the grill, additional candles and fuel for the camp lanterns. They thought: Contingency planned for and taken care of.

Wrong! That second winter they got hit with an even bigger blizzard. This one knocked the power out for 8 days and the phone for almost four. What they failed to take into consideration was that cooking on a wood burning stove or with cast iron cookware is much different than cooking with a modern gas or electric stove or oven. She burnt most of the meals and was just catching on when the power came back on. Good thing they had an over abundant winter pantry.

That second summer they all went to a Colonial Skills Camp for their summer vacation and learned a number skills including cooking on a wood stove and cast iron cooking over an open fire. As a result she has developed such a reputation for her gourmet cooking skills in primitive conditions that neighbors have been known to ski and snowmobile to their house in near blizzard conditions to enjoy her meals.

So let this be a lesson. When planning your food storage, remember to consider HOW you will prepare this stuff, in what, with what and using what kind of fuel. Think, plan, learn and acquire:

• A non-electric stove and oven, with the necessary fuel.
• Practice with the cooking equipment to ensure your skills without wasting food and fuel
• Aluminum foil, heavy duty and regular
• Cooking and baking pots, pans, plates and utensils, including a non-electric coffee pot, that can go directly on a fire pit or grill top. Think multi functional as well. Camping pots that “nest” can be used as double boilers. Many camping plates function as shallow bowls too.
• A non-electric coffee and grain grinder; mixer and blender optional

Today is the Tomorrow that you worried about Yesterday … so start doing!

Ok when you finish reading this and the appendix, you will have identified what kind of timeframe you want your food storage for (seasonal, any time natural or man-made emergency, spiritual). You are on your way to learn the old skills for preserving foods and the recipes and tools to make and consume them. You have also started your grab-and-go emergency binder, 72-hour packs and other contingency plans for various emergencies and disasters that nature and life may throw your way. You now have the knowledge to start accumulating and using your food storage, wisely and economically.

If you have chosen to be prepared for any long term disaster or emergency, like a year or two, be sure to check out the various preparedness, survival, homesteading and country living sites and blogs. Join the bogs and add your own experiences, good and bad. Better to laugh with than be laughed at. These sites can also give you more specific information on making your own fuel and energy; sanitation methods; gardening; weaving; building; livestock; water harvesting; seed saving and the like, some even have self defense information. Anything you might need to know can be obtained from these sites for long term survival, be it rural, suburban or urban.

Above all, enjoy and have fun along the way! Good luck.

 

Food Storage - Quick, Easy, Economical Ways to Get You Started - Part 3

How long does all of this stored food last?

Proper canning or packaging and storage conditions will play a major role in shelf life. For actual shelf life of opened and unopened food items, in ideal conditions, the most comprehensive list I have found so far is a downloadable PDF from FoodStorageMadeEasy.net called ShelfLife.pdf (See Appendix). It is a fantastic two page quick reference that breaks items down into groups like grains, vegetables, fruits, dairy, basics and misc beans, legumes, lentils and the like then tells you the optimum shelf life and opened shelf life expectancy for each item.

Otherwise the best place to look is on each purchased canned or boxed food item. The FDA web site and for some reason the University of Wisconsin and the Wisconsin state government sites have a good amount of data on canning, dehydrating, smoking game meat, etc and how long the items can last.

Here is some new information on a few selected items based on a recent long term storage study by LDS and Brigham Young University.

Food New Shelf-Life "Life Sustaining" Estimates (In Years)
Wheat 30+
White rice 30+
Sugar 30+
Pinto beans 30
Apple slices 30
Macaroni 30
Rolled oats 30
Potato flakes 30
Pasta 30
Powdered milk 20
Dehydrated carrots 20

A Long Word or Two about Food and Water Storage Containers

From the experts at ProvidentLiving.org and TheIdeaDoor.com

Basic Container Guide Lines

• Use only food-grade containers. Smaller containers made of PETE plastic or heavier plastic buckets or drums work well.
• Clean, sanitize, and thoroughly rinse all containers prior to use. A sanitizing solution can be prepared by adding 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) to one quart (1 liter) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used. Do not use color safe bleach.
• Do not use plastic milk jugs, because they do not seal well and tend to become brittle over time.
• Do not use containers previously used to store non-food products.

Any of these containers will allow you to safely store food
#10 Cans Foil Pouches Plastic Buckets Glass Jars Original Containers PETE

Plastic Containers

If storing water yourself consider the following:

Water Pretreatment

• Water from a chlorinated municipal water supply does not need further treatment when stored in clean, food-grade containers.
• Non-chlorinated water should be treated with bleach. Add 1/8 of a teaspoon (8 drops) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) for every gallon (4 liters) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used.

Storing and Stored Water

• Containers should be emptied and refilled regularly.
• Store water only where potential leakage would not damage your home or apartment.
• Protect stored water from light and heat. Some containers may also require protection from freezing.
• The taste of stored water can be improved by pouring it back and forth between two containers before use.

Details on Food Storage Container Types

#10 Cans

Airtight #10 cans with an oxygen absorber packet protect products from moisture, oxygen, insects, and rodents. These cans are easy to handle, move, and store.

Getting Ready
• Supply the canning area with cans, lids, labels, and product.
• Wash your hands with soap and water.
• Remove loose jewelry and empty your shirt pockets.
• Wear a hair net, an apron, and gloves.
• Do not eat or drink in the cannery area.
• Do not work in contact with food if you are sick or have an open sore.
Filling Cans
• Use a scoop to fill cans. Do not use an empty can as a scoop. Can edges are sharp and should be handled carefully.
To control dust, be careful when emptying bags and scooping product.
• Fill cans to within ¼ inch of top of can.
Using Oxygen Absorber Packets
• Oxygen absorber packets have a limited shelf life in the open air. Packets should not be exposed to air for more than four hours before cans are sealed.
• Open the plastic bag of oxygen absorber packets. If the plastic bag has a clamp, pull the two sides of the clamp apart. If the plastic bag is heat-sealed, locate the notch on the upper left-hand corner of the printed side; then, starting at the notch, tear open the top of the bag (do not cut open).
• Remove from the bag the number of packets to be used within the next 30 minutes, and spread them out on a tray. These exposed packets will now begin to absorb oxygen.
• Do not repeatedly open and close the plastic bag for a few packets at a time. Do not place unused, exposed packets back into the plastic bag.
• After removing the packets, reseal the bag by pressing out the air and fastening the clamp.
• Place one packet on the top of the product in each can. Use packets with all products except sugar.
• Note: Do not leave the plastic bag open to air. Do not refill the tray before using all exposed packets. Do not puncture or open packets. Do not eat contents of packets.
Sealing Cans
• Place lids on cans, and seal cans promptly after filling them.
Labeling Cans
• Write the date on the product-specific “Not for Sale” labels, and place the labels on the cans.
Cleaning Up
• Use a dry towel to wipe off surfaces that have contact with food when changing from one product to another to avoid cross-contamination of products.
• When you have finished, remove all food residue from the processing area by wiping with a dry cloth, sweeping, and vacuuming. Properly dispose of bags and boxes. Leave the area organized and clean.

Foil Pouches

Just like #10 cans, foil pouches protect products from moisture and insects, and are easy to handle, move, and store. In addition, foil pouches are beneficial because:

• The sealing equipment is less expensive to purchase and maintain than the equipment for cans.
• The pouches are reusable, providing long-term cost savings.
• Empty pouches take less space to store than empty #10 cans.

Plastic Buckets

Five-gallon plastic buckets are good for storing bulk products such as wheat, rolled oats, and beans. Be sure to use food-grade buckets that were designed for food storage. These buckets are always white or opaque. Do not use plastic buckets that have been used for chemical storage. Plastic buckets are useful for long-term storage. Although they are not airtight, if they are flushed with carbon dioxide or sealed with dry ice, that will help to destroy any insects that may be present in the food.

Carbon dioxide effectively prevents weevil infestation in dry-pack items stored in plastic buckets. To kill weevils, carbon dioxide should be present in concentrations above 3 percent. Treatment methods that depend on the absence of oxygen to kill weevils, such as oxygen absorbers and nitrogen gas flushing, are not always effective in plastic buckets because of the potential for oxygen leakage.

Instructions for Dry Ice Treatment in Buckets

• Use approximately 1 ounce of dry ice for each gallon of container size.
• Wipe frost crystals from the dry ice using a clean towel.
• Place the dry ice in the center of the container bottom.
• Pour the food into the container to within ½ inch to 1 inch of the top.
• Place the lid on the container and snap it down only about halfway. This will allow carbon dioxide gas to escape from the partially sealed lid as the dry ice sublimates.
• Allow the dry ice to evaporate completely before sealing the container. To see if the ice has evaporated, feel the bottom of the container. If it is still very cold, the ice has not all evaporated.
• Watch the container for a few minutes after sealing the lid. If the container bulges, slightly lift the edge of the lid to relieve pressure.
• It is normal for the lid of the bucket to pull down slightly as a result of the partial vacuum created when the carbon dioxide is absorbed into the product.
Instructions for CO2 Gas Flushing for Dry-Pack Buckets
• Set up the gas flushing equipment using a cylinder, a pressure regulator, and a probe equipped with a pipe extension to reach the bottom of the bucket.
• With the probe valve open, adjust the regulator to the appropriate setting.
o Granular products (wheat, beans, etc.): 20 lb.
o Powdered products (milk, flour, etc.): approximately 3 lb.
• Fill the buckets to within ½ inch to 1 inch of the top.
• Gas flush product with carbon dioxide. Insert the probe to the bottom of the bucket. With the hand valve open, move the probe up and down in a circular motion for the appropriate length of time.
o Granular products—gas flush for 5 seconds.
o Powdered products—gas flush for 20 seconds.
• Seal the lid immediately on the bucket.
• Wipe off the probe with a dry towel when changing from one product to another to avoid cross-contamination of products.
Cautions
• Use CO2 in well-ventilated areas only.
• Wear gloves when handling dry ice.
• Dry-pack only products that are shelf stable. Products must be low in moisture and oil content.
• Avoid exposing products to humid, damp conditions when dry-packing.

Glass Jars

Glass jars have been used for many years to successfully store dried foods. The oxygen absorber packets work well in glass bottles, because glass is an excellent gas barrier. When storing in glass, make sure the bottles are protected from breaking in case of an earthquake or other natural disaster.

Getting Ready

• Set up the canning area with jars, new lids, labels, and product.
• Inspect jars to make certain they are clean and dry. Inspect jar rims for nicks or cracks. Discard cracked and nicked jars.
Filling Jars
• Use a scoop to fill jars.
• To control dust, be careful when emptying bags and scooping product.
• Fill jars to within ¼ inch of the top.
Using Oxygen Absorber Packets
• Oxygen absorber packets have a limited shelf life in open air. Packets should not be exposed to air for more than four hours prior to sealing jars.
• Before opening the bag, check the indicator tablet on the side of the bag. If the tablet is blue, reseal the bag with the clamp and hold for 24 hours. If the tablet is still blue after 24 hours, discard the packets.
• Open the plastic bag of oxygen absorber packets. If the plastic bag has a clamp, pull the two sides of the clamp apart. If the plastic bag is heat-sealed, locate the notch on the upper left-hand corner of the printed side; then, starting at the notch, tear open the top of the bag (do not cut open).
• Remove from the bag the number of packets to be used within the next 30 minutes, and spread them out on a tray. These exposed packets will now begin to absorb oxygen.
• Do not repeatedly open and close the plastic bag for a few packets at a time. Do not place unused, exposed packets back in the plastic bag.
• After removing packets, reseal the bag by pressing out the air and fastening the clamp above the indicator tablet.
• Place one packet on the top of the product in each jar. Do not puncture or open packets. Use packets on all products except sugar.
• Note: Do not leave the plastic bag open to air. Do not refill the tray before using all exposed packets. Do not eat contents of packets.
Sealing Jars
• Wipe off jar rim with a clean, dry cloth.
• Place lids on jars, and seal firmly.
Labeling Jars
• Write the date on the product-specific “Not for Sale” labels, and place the labels on the jars.
Cleaning Up
• Use a dry towel to wipe off surfaces that have contact with food when changing from one product to another to avoid cross-contamination of products.
• When you have finished, remove all food residue from the processing area by wiping with a dry cloth, sweeping, and vacuuming. Properly dispose of bags and boxes. Leave the area organized and clean.

Original Containers

In dry climates, many products such as sugar, salt, oil, pasta, and rice can be stored in their original containers. Many people are very successful storing these products in plastic buckets to protect them from insects and rodents.

PETE Plastic Containers

PETE (polyethylene terephthalate) refers to a type of clear plastic bottle commonly used for foods sold in grocery stores. The bottles are identified on the bottom, next to the recycle emblem, with the letters PETE. This type of container has good oxygen barrier qualities and can be used with oxygen absorbers to store bulk dry foods. The low oxygen content of the sealed containers protects the stored food from insect infestation and helps preserve product quality. These containers are well-suited for products that are rotated on a regular basis, while still providing several years of storage capability.

Instructions:
1. Use only PETE bottles that are new or have been previously commercially packaged with food. Bottles need to have screw-on lids with plastic, not paper, lid seals.
2. Wash and rinse bottles to remove any residue. Drain and dry bottles.
3. Place an oxygen absorber packet in each bottle.
4. Fill bottles with bulk dry products that are low in moisture and oil content.*
5. Wipe top sealing edge clean.
6. Screw lids on tightly to seal the bottles.
7. Store the products in a cool, dry location, away from sunlight.
8. Use a new oxygen absorber packet each time you refill a bottle for storage.

Oxygen Absorber Packets

Oxygen absorber packets are available at Welfare Services' home storage centers and on-line at www.ldscatalog.com. Each absorber can be used for containers of up to 1 gallon (4 liter) capacity.

When packaging products, open the bag of absorbers and take out the number of packets you plan to use in 20 to 30 minutes. Store the remainder of the absorber packets in a sealed glass jar with a metal lid.

*Refer to the Approved Dry-Pack Products list.
*Products that are not low in moisture may allow growth of Clostridium Botulinium bacteria, which produces potentially lethal botulism toxin.

Specifics for Dry Pack Canning

** All Items Must be low moisture - 10% moisture or less, good quality, and insect free.

P R O D U C T S

Cannery Approved

Apple Slices
Beans, Great Northern
Beans, Pink
Beans, Pinto
Carrots, Dry
Flour, White
Fruit Drink Mix
Hot Cocoa Mix
Macaroni
Milk, Nonfat Dry
Oats, Rolled
Onions, Dry
Potatoes
Pudding, Chocolate
Pudding, Vanilla
Rice, White
Soup Mix
Spaghetti
Sugar, Granulated
Wheat, Whole

Non - Cannery Approved

Cheese Powder
Desserts (products that do not contain eggs)
Fruits and Vegetables, Dehydrated (dry enough to snap when broken)
Gelatin and Pudding
Grains, Whole
Legumes
Pasta (products that do not contain egg)
Soy Protein Isolate or TVP

NOT Approved for Home Dry Pack (Some may be available commercially dry packed.)

Baking Powder
Baking Soda
Barley, Pearled
Bouillon
Chewy Fruit, Dehydrated (such as raisins)
Cornmeal
Eggs, Dried
Flour, Whole Wheat
Grains, Milled or Cracked
Granola
Meat, Dried
Mixes containing leavening (such as pancake or biscuit mix)
Nuts (roasted or raw)
Oil
Rice, Brown
Salt
Spices
Sugar, Brown
Yeast


#10 Metal Can - Fill with food, put on lid, add one oxygen packet, and seal with dry-pack canner.

Mylar Bag - Fill with food (allow enough room on top for seal), add one oxygen packet, and seal with heat sealer. In a few days mylar bag will pull in around food. Bags, if carefully opened, may be washed and reused.

Glass Jar - Fill with food, add one oxygen packet, cover with metal lid (which has been immersed in boiling water to soften sealing compound and then quickly dried), and screw on metal band.

5-gallon Plastic Bucket - Line with food-grade plastic bag (PETE), add food, add five oxygen packets, tie plastic bag closed, and put on bucket lid.

Recommended containers for longer-term (30 years or more) storage includes the following:

• # 10 cans (available at Church home storage centers)
• Foil pouches (available through LDS Church Distribution Services)
• PETE bottles (for dry products such as wheat, corn, and beans)

These containers, used with oxygen absorber packets, eliminate food-borne insects and help preserve nutritional quality and taste. Oxygen absorber packets are available at Church home storage centers or through Church Distribution Services.

Under certain conditions, you can also use plastic buckets for longer-term storage of wheat, dry beans, and other dry products.

Properly packaged, low-moisture foods stored at room temperature or cooler (75°F/24°C or lower) remain nutritious and edible much longer than previously thought according to findings of recent scientific studies. Estimated shelf life for many products has increased to 30 years or more (see chart for new estimates of shelf life). Previous estimates of longevity were based on "best-if-used-by" recommendations and experience. Though not studied, sugar, salt, baking soda (essential for soaking beans), and vitamin C in tablet form also store well long-term. Some basic foods do need more frequent rotation, such as vegetable oil every 1 to 2 years.

While there is a decline in nutritional quality and taste over time, depending on the original quality of food and how it was processed, packaged and stored, the studies show that even after being stored long-term, the food will help sustain life in an emergency.

Warning: Botulism poisoning may result if moist products are stored in packaging that reduces oxygen. When stored in airtight containers with oxygen absorbers, products must be dry (about 10% or less moisture content).